Dining in Charleston

I have been dreaming about the food in Charleston for the past four months. Even though I was surrounded by heaving plates of Spaghetti Carbonara and fresh-out-the-oven Pizza Napoletana in Italy, I couldn't stop thinking about the food that awaited me back in Charleston.  I promised myself when I got back I would start a diet to detox from all the rich food, but I took one look at all the brand new restaurants (and the old gems) and fell to my vices. Charleston, I'm weak for you.

Peninsula Grill

112 N. Market St

For Mother's Day I wanted to do something really special for my mom, I wanted to take her to a place she would always remember. She kept dropping hints about wanting to try the Coconut Cake at Peninsula Grill, especially after last week when Kathie Lee and Hoda tried it on the Today Show (and loved it). So after one too many conversations about the cake, I surprised her with a Mother's Day Dinner at the Peninsula Grill. 

This was probably one of the best meals I've had in Charleston, and I don't dole that title out very often. My mom and I both had the Pan Roasted Jumbo Sea Scallops with braised butter lettuce, diced lobster, garlic-chive mashed potatoes, and citrus lobster broth. The scallops sat on this incredible crouton that absorbed all of the succulent citrus lobster broth, its no wonder Charleston Magazine did a write-up on this dish.  

And of course our dinner wouldn't have been complete without the famous Coconut Cake. Our eyes were definitely bigger than our stomachs because this cake was huge,  we had to keep taking breaks in-between bites. We found out that the the whole cake weighs 12 pounds which means each slice is 1 pound. But don't bother asking how many calories are in a slice because the servers won't tell you (trust me its a good thing, the number is up there). But you can't put a price on something that good (or "sinful" as my mom called it).

The Ordinary

544 King St

I've probably violated some kind of James Beard Award rule by going to Mike Lata's new restaurant The Ordinary before trying his first one, FIG, but I just can't resist a good seafood restaurant. You can tell Lata really put his heart into this place, the decor is beautiful, the atmosphere is energetic, and the food is...far from just "ordinary". The menu changes every day depending on the seafood import (usually local and regional oysters, lobster, crab, clams, etc.).

One item on the menu that isn't subject to change is The Ordinary Lobster Roll. Growing up in the New England area whenever I see a lobster roll on a menu down south I feel a moral obligation to try it, that and the fact that I just love lobster. This lobster roll was definitely on par with something you'd find in Maine, kudos Mike Lata. The delicious warm, buttery bun (which I found out is made by local bakery Browns Court Bakery) practically melted in my hands, and the lobster salad was perfect, not too heavy on the mayo or spices. Although I wish my date for the night had liked oysters so we could have had one of the seafood towers, I was really in love with that lobster roll. I'll definitely be back soon.

Barsa

58 Line Street

I have been meaning to go to Barsa for a while, but its not-so-ideal location has kind of made it an afterthought when it comes to choosing a place to eat. I finally made a trip over here with one of my friends who studied abroad in Spain and was dying to try some really good Spanish food. Not knowing what to expect we kind of came here with moderate expectations, and were pleasantly surprised by the exceptional food, service, and prices.

I still can't wrap my head around the fact that virtually no one knows about their happy hour. 1/2 price paella and $5 dollar cocktail drinks? It's a steal. We started with some tapas which included Papas Bravas, Romesco, and Calamari.  I can never turn down a glass of Sangria (especially on a discount), so I took advantage of the happy hour special. Naturally I had to get the seafood paella dish, which I was kind of nervous about because I have had some really awful paella outside of Spain. Thankfully this paella was delicious, the seafood was so fresh and the rice was the perfect consistency. Barsa is definitely a neighborhood gem, I'm anticipating another trip back for happy hour.

I know I'll never even scratch the surface of places to dine in Charleston, but with a whole summer ahead of me I'm sure I'll be able to cross a few places off my bucket list.

Happy Friday!

Back in NYC

One of the cities I missed the most while abroad (other than my beloved Charleston) was New York City. Cities like London, Madrid, and Paris made me pine for the cozy streets of SoHo and the hustle of Midtown. Its no surprise that the first place I went after arriving in the U.S. was the city, to indulge in some art, shopping, and food (of course). After a long, cold winter there is nothing better than the blossom of Spring in NYC.

The MOMA.

I hadn't been to the MOMA in years, and after all the amazing art I saw in Europe I felt like it was time to revisit this museum. My favorite floor was the Post-impressionism/Cubism/ and Futurism. I studied a lot of Picasso while in Rome so I had more of an appreciation for his work after visiting the MOMA than I ever had before. I also really enjoyed the Andy Warhol room, I'm not a fan of Pop Art but theres something about the Gold Marilyn that catches my eye.

Starry Night by Van Gogh

 Agapanthus by Monet 

Gold Marilyn by Andy Warhol

The Palm Court Tea Room at The Plaza.

The first time I went to the tea room at the plaza I was only a year old. Growing up one of my favorite books was Eloise at the Plaza (its no wonder I love staying in hotels) so I've always felt a special connection to this place. Now 20 years later, my mom and I returned for their famous tea time. Much of the Great Gatsby was inspired by F. Scott Fitzgerald's time at the Plaza, where he and his wife, Zelda, used to visit during the Prohibition. The Plaza decided to honor him during their tea time with the "F. Scott Fitzgerald Tea for the Ages" at the Palm Court. We enjoyed an afternoon tea with scones, finger sandwiches, and desserts all inspired by the upcoming premiere of the Great Gatsby movie.

Finger Sandwiches 

Assortment of Jams and Clotted Cream, Apple Cider Tea, and Smoked Salmon Sandwich

Self Portrait?

Brunch.

I made my little foodie (and best friend) Caroline promise to take me to brunch when I got back from Italy (sadly brunch does not exist there). Since it was such a gorgeous spring day we settled on a little breakfast place called Made Fresh Daily by the South Street Seaport. I had a yummy frittata with artichokes, broccoli, goat cheese, and chives complete with a tall glass of strawberry lemonade. I didn't realize how much I had missed breakfast food (or the lack thereof) while I was in Italy.

View from Caroline's apartment

Though I'm looking forward to spending my summer in the South, I'm definitely going to miss the little things back home. See you soon, South Carolina!

Reflections

As I attempt to adjust back to American life I'm becoming a little nostalgic thinking about the past few months in Europe. I traveled to some beautiful places, met some awesome people, and ate incredible food. Even though my European adventure has come to an end, I still find solace in all the memories I have. Though there are oceans between us, a part of me will always be in Rome.

A few weeks ago my dad sent me an email to let me know he had been keeping up with my blog. I didn't realize it then but he offered me perspective about my entire study abroad experience. He said that through my blog, pictures, and stories he could see how I progressed from when I first arrived in Rome. When I first got there I was timid and overwhelmed. I knew very little about the Italian language and culture, and was intimidated by it. But as I got more comfortable I began to speak Italian, eat la cucina tipica (typical food), and travel to places outside of my comfort zone. It took the last four months for me to realize that this experience had changed me, I now have a new sense of wanderlust and cultural appreciation that I had never had before.

If I can offer up some pieces of advice about traveling and/or adjusting to a new place its these:

Talk to people. 
Obviously making friends was a very essential part of this experience for me, but I had the best conversations with people I met for the first time and barely knew. On the first day of my Digital Photography class I sat next to an Egyptian student who I was slightly intimidated by. The next class she started chatting me up, asking me where I was from and what I was studying and by the end of the class we were already making plans to explore Rome together. Our friendship continued throughout the semester and she has taught me so much about the Eastern culture and also inspired me through her travels and photography (I really want to go to Cairo after seeing her photos). You never know who you can meet in the right place at the right time with an open mind.

See more of Menna's photography here

Try the regional food
One thing that always bothers me when I travel is when people want to eat at chain restaurants and fast food places that we have in America. Food is a huge part of the cultural experience in Europe, and trying the local food is a great way to assimilate yourself into the culture. I love that I've had Bolognese in Bologna, Fish & Chips in London, Gallettes in Paris, Paella in Barcelona, Caprese Salad in Capri...(I'll stop there). The point is traveling can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so take full advantage of it by indulging in the region's delicacies!

Native Roman Dish "Cacio e Pepe"

Pretend to be a local
Hanging out at the local restaurants, pubs, monuments, etc. is a great way to meet people and learn more about the culture. The first week me and my roommates made an effort to try to go to the authentic Italian bars and clubs so we could experience the Italian nightlife firsthand. It was really funny to talk to the Italians (or attempt to) and hear what they have to say about Americans (Romans are fascinated with America). We discovered most of these places just walking around at night and listening to peoples conversations, but TripAdvisor can be helpful too!

Our Favorite Italian-Irish-American Pub, Scholars Lounge

Do your research
Before I visit a place I always read up on it. This way I'm not totally lost when I'm walking around a city wondering what church or monument I'm looking at. And its always nice to know a little something about the culture so you don't feel ignorant. It's also a good idea to plan out your trips so you don't miss anything; a weekend is shorter than you think! (p.s. if you're just traveling one particular country, Eyewitness Travel books are a really great resource)

 Eyewitness Travel Italy was my go-to travel source while abroad

I could probably suggest a few more things but the beauty of traveling is figuring things out for yourself. And also knowing that things will go wrong (I've had my fair share of cancelled flights and lost items). But the chaos, confusion, and adventure always make for a good story. Thank you so much to my family and friends who made this abroad journey possible and more importantly, unforgettable. I will never forget the amazing places I went and all the fascinating people I met along the way.

Buon Viaggi! 

Gelato Guide to Rome

In my last three months here I have consumed a certain Italian delicacy almost every day: gelato. The most difficult question I get whenever I have a friend or family member visit is "Where is the best gelato?". To be honest, I don't know the answer to this question. And it's not because I haven't tried enough places (is it possible to try too many?) but rather that every gelateria is different in its own way. So in order to organize my thoughts on my favorite gelato places, I have created my own little "Gelato Guide to Rome".

Gelateria Del Teatro

Lungotevre dei Vallati, 25

Centro Storico

Clockwise: Ginger and Rosemary, Lemon, & Sage. Mint Chocolate Chip and Rosemary, Lemon, & Sage. Mint Chocolate Chip and Fig, Cheese, & Nut. 

 This gelateria has a few locations around Rome, but my favorite is the one on Lungotevre dei Vallati, right across from the Ponte Garibaldi Bridge in Centro Storico. Del Teatro boasts light, fresh flavors like Rosemary, Lemon & Sage and Fig, Cheese, & Nut that are simply unbeatable. The only downside to this gelateria is it is a little pricey, but you know you are getting high quality, delicious gelato that is unlike anywhere else.

Fior di Luna

Via della Lungaretta, 96

Trastevere

Hazelnut and Catalan Creme Caramel

Fior is my go-to gelato place in Trastevere. It might not be the best gelato in Rome, but its cheap and never fails to satisfy a gelato craving. The best part of Fior is the big healthy dollop of Panna (whipped cream) that the friendly scoopers always give you for free. 

Old Bridge Gelateria

Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo, 5

Vatican City

Left to Right: Stracciatella and Biscotti. Nutella, Pistachio & Riccotta, and Biscotti.

I discovered this gelateria when my friends came to visit a few weeks ago. One of the girls, who was studying abroad in Seville, mentioned that her host mom had the best gelato right outside the Vatican at a little hole-in-the-wall gelateria. Somehow we managed to discover it after a vatican tour, and waited in the long line for some the best gelato I have had in a while. While this gelato is definitely rich and creamy, it also has fresh flavors like Pistachio and Ricotta. This place is the epitome of an authentic Italian gelateria.

Gelateria Frigidarium
Via del Governo Vecchio, 112
Parione/Piazza Navona

Frigidarium and Chocolate Mint with a White Chocolate Shell

In a city where gelato is as abundant as espresso, it is rare to find a gelateria that brings something unique to the table. Gelateria Frigidarium is one of those places that has struck a cord with me for being different than any place I've ever been to. Frigidarium, right across from the Irish pub Abbey Theatre, not only has delicious flavors but they dip their gelato in a hard shell. Yes you heard me, you can dip your gelato (be it cup or cone) into a white chocolate or milk chocolate shell. This is hands-down my gelato place of the moment, you'll have to try their signature Frigidarium flavor with a white chocolate hard shell to believe it.


Flor
Piazza Campo dei' Fiori, 144
Campo dei Fiori

Tiramisu

Maybe I'm a little bias because this was one of the first places I had a gelato in Rome, but Flor is always one of my recommendations. Their gelato is smooth and creamy but not too heavy. Aside from delicious gelato, they also have frozen yogurt with tons of different topping choices. My favorite flavors here are Tiramisu and Sicilian Pistachio.

I could definitely keep going because there are tons of other gelato places in Rome that are just as good but in the interest of time here are some runner-ups: Della Palma by the Pantheon (150 different flavors! try the Peanut Butter and Kit-Kat), Blue Ice (I know its a chain but I just can't help it, they have crepes!), Checco er Carettiere in Trastevere (little hole-in-the-wall gelateria with some authentic Italian flavors like Pinoli), Giolitti by the Pantheon (didn't have a great experience here because it was so busy but its old and famous, definitely worth a try!).

Buon Appetito! 

La Posta Vecchia

Before Aaron Spelling, Rick Hilton, Donald Trump, and Bill Gates there was J. Paul Getty. Getty made a name for himself as founder of Getty Oil Company, a business that would later make him one of the most profitable men of the 20th century. Getty passed away in 1976 but his legacy includes the J. Paul Getty Museum in L.A., The Getty Research Institute, The Getty Foundation, and my most recent trip, La Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli just outside of central Rome, Italy.

La Posta Vecchia was Getty's Italian seaside home in the 1960's. Once owned by the rich Italian family the Orsinis, the villa was devastated in a fire and later purchased by Getty. Getty turned it into a fabulous vacation villa complete with 19 rooms, a pool, a museum of ancient Roman artifacts, and much more.

I visited La Posta Vecchia with my mom this past weekend when she came to help me pack my things up to head back to the U.S. My parents visited La Posta Vecchia several summers ago and it has always been one of the wonders of Rome in my mother's eyes. We headed out on an overcast Friday morning for lunch and a tour of the villa, which is now a hotel.

Lunch at The Cesar Restaurant in the villa was an incredible Italian feast. We had a gorgeous view of the Mediterranean sea from our table near the window. We sipped Prosecco and Ribolla Gialla and enjoyed the beautiful decor of the dining room. Our lunch lasted nearly 3 hours with 5 courses (compliments of the chef, antipasto, primo piatto, secondo piatto, and dessert), but it had been a while since either of us had a good meal like that. My favorite dishes were the antipasto of Scallops with a Pork Biscuit and Apple Glaze and the Filet of Beef with an Eggplant Cake and Beetroot Sauce. Their house-made bread selection was so delicious I could have just had that as my meal. I was a little disappointed with my dessert, the Pear Souffle, which tasted more like a quiche with fruit. However my mom's Chocolate and Raspberry Mousse Cake was so delicious it made up for what my dessert lacked.

Clockwise: Compliments of the Chef (Cod Meatballs, Cheese Cannoli, Anchovy Toast, Salmon Tartine, Vegetable Tartine, Fish Tartare Jelly). Assortment of House-made Breads.

Clockwise: Scallop Antipaso. Filet of Beef with Eggplant Cake and Beetroot sauce

Clockwise: Chocolate and Raspberry Mousse Cake. Pear Souffle with Coffee Gelato. 

After lunch we took a tour of the villa. My favorite part was J. Paul Getty's Room (called the Getty Suite), which my parents actually stayed in when they visited. The room was huge with views of the Mediterranean sea and Italian coast (I wouldn't mind waking up to that every day). The most intriguing part of the room was the "Mistress' Quarters" which was a room attached to Getty's suite which I can only assume is where his mistresses stayed. The Mistress' Quarters is now actually called the Mistress Suite and is an available room in the villa.

Getty's Bedroom

Getty's Closet

The most interesting part of the villa was the artifact museum in the basement. When Getty decided to rebuild the villa after the fire, the construction team discovered thousands of ancient artifacts and relics that belonged to the previous owners of the the estate. There are ceramic pots, marble, and sarcophagi from all over the world (Greece, Turkey, Spain) that had once been part of the decor. Instead of donating the artifacts to a museum, Getty decided to let them remain on display at the villa as a little piece of history for visitors.

La Posta Vecchia is not only a beautiful hotel, but it also serves as an incredibly interesting piece of history. How many people can say they slept in Millionaire (and would-be Billionaire) Paul Getty's bed? Or had lunch in the region of Alsium (now Ladispoli), where famous Romans like Cicero, Caesar, and Pompeius used to visit? My experience at Posta Vecchia was not only enjoyable for culinary and aesthetic reasons, but also because of the insight I gained into the history of Rome, the city I have called home for the past 4 months.

Grazie per un giorno bello, La Posta Vecchia! 

Capri Island

When I think of the ultimate island getaway I envision a place like Capri. Winding streets filled with luxury shops, beach clubs tucked into delving cliffs, and fresh seafood straight from the local port. In Capri there are no surprises, but I think thats what makes it such a relaxing vacation destination.

I traveled to Capri after Pompeii and Sorrento and my expectations were much higher than that of my previous destinations. I was expecting white sandy beaches, tropical drinks, and cliff diving into the deep blue. But this was not the case, Capri was much more of a European island experience; more relaxed and traditional than that of the Caribbean.

Our day in Capri started with a boat tour of the island which consists of Capri and Anacapri. It was very windy and cold which was kind of disappointing, but as the day progressed it actually turned into a sunny, semi-warm day. We saw everything from the island's famous bright orange coral to the mysterious Blue Grotto (one of the wonders of the world). Because we were only there for the day and the weather was so-so we didn't get to do some of the more exciting activities like the chairlift over the island or the tour of the Blue Grotto, but just being able to see all of the island in one shot was good enough for me.

Orange Coral

Entrance to the Blue Grotto

Capri originated the ever popular Italian salad called the "Caprese Salad", so I knew exactly what I wanted for lunch. We took the cable car to the top of the Island where we found a fancy little restaurant called Edode Restaurant. I knew I had to try some of the fresh seafood so I ordered fried Calamari as my appetizer, which did not disappoint. And for my main course I went with the Caprese Salad; the mozzarella was so fresh and creamy. And the tomatoes were so crisp and juicy; hands down the best Caprese I've had so far. Even though we were pretty full from lunch, when we got a whiff of the pastries from Pasticceria Gelateria Buonocore, we knew we had to indulge in a cannoli. I've only a few cannolis in my time here, but this one was definitely the winner (any place that coats the shell in chocolate has my vote). The food in Capri is definitely worth writing home for.

My trip to Capri will always be an incredible reminder of my stay in Italy. This was my last trip during my study abroad time, and it was the perfect way to end 4 months of travel. Capri was definitely the most "tropical" place I visited while I was abroad, and I'm happy that I saved it for last. I'm sad that my time in Europe is coming to an end, but the memories I'm left with I'll carry with me for the rest of my life.

Pompeii & Sorrento

The "lost city" of Pompeii has always been a place on my bucket list since I learned about it in middle school. The city was built below Mt. Vesuvius, which was an unknown active volcano at the time. In 79 A.D. the volcano erupted destroying the city of Pompeii and leaving it abandoned until it was discovered in the late 18th century. The incredible part of this city is that when it was rediscovered it was still mostly intact; much of the city still stood regardless of the thick blanket of ash that had covered it in seconds.

Old Military Barracks 

On Friday I traveled to Pompeii and Sorrento, a town on the Amalfi Coast, as my last trip with my program. Our first stop was Pompeii, right outside of Naples. Our day consisted of a tour of the remains of the city. I was amazed at how much of the architecture still stood since the eruption nearly 2,000 years ago. Historians have been able to identify houses, bakeries, thermal baths, and even brothels from what still remains. As I walked along the streets and peered into the windows, I could imagine the families sitting at their kitchen tables or the bakers baking fresh bread in the concrete ovens. By the end of the trip we were calling Pompeii, "The 'New York City' of dead cities" because it definitely was a hoppin' city at some point in time.

Pompeii Town Center

Pompeii Gardens

Casting of a body that was found underneath the rubble

We arrived in the beautiful town of Sorrento mid-afternoon on Friday. It was probably about 70 degrees and extremely sunny, which was a nice change of pace from some of the weather we had been having in Rome. Sorrento is a little coast town with delving cliffs and sparkling blue water that feeds off the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is especially known for its production of Limoncello, a digestif of lemon rinds, alcohol, and water. I'm going to be honest when I say that I did not try any Limoncello here. I haven't had a good experience with Limoncello in the past and I was not feeling particularly adventurous that day, but I don't doubt that the Limoncello in this town is very good.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the downtown of Sorrento, where I purchased a cute floppy hat to shade myself from the sweltering heat. The town of Sorrento is very small itself, but it has alot to offer as far as good shopping, luxury hotels, and southern Italian cuisine. We also had some very memorable gelato at Gelateria Primavera (apparently Pope Pius liked the gelato there).

View of the Amalfi Coast 

Gelateria Primavera

I really enjoyed Pompeii and Sorrento equally as much. Obviously both of them were different in their own way, Pompeii being more of a historical city while Sorrento is definitely a place for leisure. I thought Sorrento was very charming, I loved being able to see the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast from anywhere in the town. And Pompeii was so unique, I couldn't believe that I was standing in the remains of a city destroyed by a vicious volcano. I still find myself enamored with landscape, culture, and architecture of Italy every day.

Dopo Tempo, Un Viaggio in Capri!